Patching only needed for major damage, the glue and tile will hide a lot. Sound like your sprayer should work fine. I just cant see how cracking would develop with another acrylic layer based on the discussions above. Is Benjamin Moore Aura exterior a good option also? You must log in or register to reply here. ;/. I assume it has lead paint, but it seems very intact. Plus it does this faster and easier than most paints. Wash, dry and reapply, in most cases.
A block fill primer, the recommended primer for block, is nice as it is typically cheaper than paint allowing more to be used for a nicely sealed surface. I was hoping to skip the priming/sealer step and do 1 coat of paint. This will make it a lot cheaper, and a lot easier, as its just the primer that needs to be specific. Im not sure what product was used but understand that it was from a professional commercial line. I can not imagine that I will ever successfully remove all of the glue. What would you recommend for cleaning? Spray only, generally doesnt work well.
Can we add sand to the primer or paint to achieve the desired effect? Its been a year since your last comment, so I hope youre still around. Usually just a wash is all that is needed for painting. If you think this could be an issue, sheen looks off or the section looks weird, just get another gallon and roll out the section feathering into the adjacent areas.
An alternative to using Dryloc as the finish paint is use a good elastomeric coating over the blockfill primer. Signs of excessive water will be staining and bubbling of the finish coat. If filled in the holes nicely and made the wall much smoother. I have attempted applying this Glidden paint directly over the previously painted wall, as well as used a Drylok waterproofer and BIN shellac based primer. This is a great site with excellent information! Otherwise, the wall seems to be fairly solid. Pre-fill the pores with a block-fill primer, standard acrylic will work for most circumstances.
I dont know if what is on the wall is a block sealant or plain old paint? You have several choices but if water seeping isnt an issue then a good universal acrylic primer will work. It looks new and wonderful and we saved thousands of dollars doing it ourselves. Large professional units can be rented. Correct, use acrylic block fill primer to seal up the block.
Same goes for under the deck, a pain but if it is visible then it should be painted. We replaced windows and we now have fresh, unpainted stucco around the windows.
If there is persistent moisture you should use a water blocking sealer that can take hydrostatic pressure before painting. Is that true? With the pores well sealed, blockfill primer, and good paint applied the block will be well sealed from the outside.
The answer is yes! Using a primer is a good idea, better safe than sorry. Scrape away any loose material then prime. Consult with the sealer manufacture for specific recommendations. Would I be able to use a paint with a primer in it?
This will help stabilize the wall and keep the moisture from becoming a problem in the future. Prime everything. Is it necessary to use a primer?
The most important consideration is the quality of the paint. Its going to rain overnight which causes dirt to splash up on the block. I hope Im not too annoying & thanks again for your assistance. Can you let me know if this sounds like a good plan or is there something I am missing or that you would change?
The difference of texture will drastically alter the amount of primer and finish paint needed. Older basement 50s, cinder block, Was painted white, with with some areas of Efflorescence. Son has a house built in the 1960s. The roof should have appropriate flashing to protect the roof sheeting and exterior wall from water damage. I want to repaint it. Priming depends on the sealer used and the condition of the block. The previous owner has painted the interior wall, its in good condition but old, the colour looks fading. The only difference with what I outlined is I prefer to caulk in everything after the primer, often Im dealing with a degraded substrate and need to stabilize it before caulking.
When I water my yard water leaks into my driveway through the cracks in the walls. I get confused about when to do my caulking, before or after I apply Drilock sealant / primer???
Thank you very much! Sealing each block before assembly would be preferred. #1 Etching isnt needed.
The main difference between painting and staining is that paint adds a thin layer of color on top of the surface, while staining soaks the color into the surface.
4. That takes care of the exterior.
3) We have a ton of red curbs that neednt be red! You try another primer, Zinsser 123 acrylic. Now is a good time to replace rotten wood or if it isnt that much you can try wood hardener instead, epoxy wood hardener is the best (PC-Rot Terminator is really good).
What do you recommend? Real world recommendation for safe max humidity is anything over 80% will be a major problem.
Problem for another day! The Zinsser 123 is a good primer that adheres well to difficult surfaces, is readily available and reasonably priced. (I am hoping there is some sort of flashing installed that would take care of that area.) A suitable spray pattern is the 15 degree tip held 12 inches from the surface. Then paint with some primer (just not sure if Oil Based or Water Based would be best). I am assuming this is because the concrete was never sealed or primed. Cinder blocks are just concrete, so any paint that works for concrete will work perfectly for the cinder blocks. Use a gas powdered sprayer on the exterior for added power and convenience. I travel for festivals and use deck blocks to weigh my canopy down at windy events or when I cant use tent stakes. I added a washer/dryer in there 4 years ago and I moved it today to prep for repainting and found same thing on the ground, bubbled paint and crumbled concrete. The main considerations you need to think about are new and unpainted, condition of existing finish and type of concrete block.
1) Yes, the block walls can be painted. The house doesnt have any moisture problem by condensation, guess its not a problem solved with paint. If you have silicone caulking around the windows then you need to remove as much as possible, if possible, then apply new paintable caulking over it. I have been looking for tutorial on how to paint interior cinder block for days, and finally got here, so lucky! Can I later paint over the 123 with Seal Krete when the temp gets warmer?
And that is, that the typical paints used for painting exterior walls arent always the best at adhering to masonry surfaces such as cinder blocks, as they struggle against the rougher texture. A 3/4 gallon per minute sprayer and a 517 spray tip is the minimum required.
First Id like to say this page has been a fantastic resource, thank you! The house is old and the concrete blocks are painted (likely in the past 25 years). As a lot of people commented, thank you for you time. Also, would you recommend painting/sealing these areas? Help, Help, Help!!! Its a old ground face block from the 50-70s. What can I put on it to help preserve it and not dull the colors? My main concern is painting without damaging or weakening the prior sealing process. It will be fine. My interior fireplace is made of split face concrete block and its never been painted. However, there is one small issue. Im looking to paint the cinder block walls in the basement of our 1959 house. Especially if you use a quality paint, like Sherwin Williams Interior Super Paint or better. I dont think this would be useful in your situation.
How do I estimate paint consumption? You will need to play with the mix to get something that will stick and look good without cracking. New unpainted concrete block walls need to have all dirt and loose mortar removed prior to priming. Whoever owned the home prior painted them incorrectly and they are chipping and flaking and water has gotten in at some point. Do I have to apply the product using a thick roller and back brush it? I have no idea how old they are, but the paint is thick & has crackled/chipped in various places. You probably wont need the block filler after priming with the oil based primer as this will fill a lot of pores. Do I seal the interior or do I seal the exterior?
Do I use TSP after scraping? Vertical walls need just a good washing.
Any thoughts, tips, anything you can offer? I tried scrubbing it off with a wire brush but that didnt seem to do much, also the mortar is very crumbly so brushing that is pretty sketchy I think I am now ready to paint and wanted to know if using an elastomeric paint would be a good choice? You will encounter two types of block, smooth and split-face. Its a great help and have learned a lot. The base coat, I have used Insul-Bond Dry Base, can be applied directly to the block and is used to level the surface. Home is cement block painted with latex, the wood trim, sides and patio repainted years back with oil base paint with extra linseed oil added and it soaked up a couple of coats then painted over with latex (HD Behr high gloss white lasted about 15+ years now its peeling and looks really bad on the south and west sides of home, maybe have some wood rot, the block has a chalky feel when you run your fingers along it. No need to remove the deck posts, just paint whatever you can reach. Would you advise i prime the walls first before applying two coats final coats or can I just clean the prepare the walls then apply two quotes as per the specification. But dont worry, this doesnt mean that you necessarily have to buy specific specialized masonry paint.
The finish paint can be any color sheen you desire. Contact a contractor that has this equipment. Another option is a basic stucco patch, powder available at hardware stores. The primer will help with the loose mortar, gluing it together.
Do you have another suggestion for a topcoat that has better UV protection? How long to wait before painting ?
I scraped all that would come off, had any loose mortar repaired and cracks filled, and now I must paint. Typically a cleaning is all that is needed. I have removed all loose paint and scraped with wire brush. The number 1 thing to do mow is make sure the dirt around your home slopes away and there is good drainage. Hi have a couple of homes in sunny hot Arizona needing painted
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They will also be subject to sun exposure when it is not raining. I have hopefully a quick question I have removed old stucco or alike (looked awful so I could not resist) and I am down to some of old paint and original cinder block from 1950s. The waterborne urethanes will work well but nothing lasts as long as you want. This is such a valuable resource, and you deserve a lot of credit for giving your time and expertise in answering. Is there an optimal temperature to paint blocks or do high temps affect painting? When it started peeling, pressure washed off just those couple areas and painted again. UV Protection: Not a whole lot of good choices. The main concern is sealing all sides and the top to prevent water or moisture from entering the wall. My painter is saying that applying a new latex coating on top of the existing water-based paint will lead to cracking and recommends stripping the previous coatings and applying a new oil-based finish system. This would be a good idea if you add grout lines.
For the other mentioned options; Prime the block then apply drywall compound to smooth it out. If so, could we tint it and not top coat it for a while? What should i do about the crumbling concrete? We are using a Elastomeric paint made for masonry. Cheap synthetic roller covers become compressed easily and will be frustrating to work with. Prime the whole thing with an oil based primer, like Zinsser Cover Stain. The Watertite will work well. (One of your posts suggested using a satin or semi gloss finish for easier cleaning.) This isnt easy as cutting silicone caulking is all around hard, time consuming work. I have a total of 23 windows. Do I really need an oil based primer? The exterior cinder block can be primed and painted after prep as normal, there shouldnt be any significant heat on the outside areas. This will help. A roller will do this just fine. While pressure washing the exterior inject the masonry cleaner into the washer and use a scrub broom on persistent areas. The cracks are bigger than a hair line crack and are vertically as long as the 2 to 3 ft wall. A good caulking will work well.
You can always prime over the test area. Make sure to clean the surface well, no dust or soot. Hi there! Also finish each roller stroke in the down motion, this will lay down the roller stipple in the same direction across the wall making a better look. The rest shouldnt need priming but you can test the original paint by rubbing the paint some alcohol, rubbing or denatured. A properly painted concrete block wall will be virtually maintenance free for many years, but the same wall not properly painted can be a maintenance nightmare. I am thinking Zinsser bc of the availability/price. Polyurethane caulkings must be primed before painting, oil base primer. Could try priming with Drylok masonry primer then painting. Trying to do it as cheaply as possible as I have many other projects going. Most primers can be tinted to a light gray. I have read on other websites block walls should breathe. It has been previously painted and also had water entering through the bottom 2 feet of the walls when we moved in. Without mortar the top and bottom edges are exposed to water.
It has never been painted, stained or otherwise treated in any way. But, large stress cracks will need repair before any paint can be applied. And be mindful of the weather.
https://www.paclandinc.com/portfolio/culver-city-90232-cmu-slump-block-wall/, 2) We had some sidewalks repaved and there is concrete overspray all over the surrounding natural brick raised planters. Can you recommend any specific products for the block fill primer? Thanks again for your help.
This is a two-person operation. Thanks again, Thank you for all your incredible guidance! I dont know what kind of paint was used. The block walls will still breath with the block-fill and elastomeric applied.
Any suggestions on how to get the paint to stick? Choosing a thicker paint, like an elastomeric coating will also help fill the pores. A primer is needed. Most often, walls made out of cinder blocks will be located and found in the exterior, as they can resist weather conditions really well and perfect for outdoor use. What should I fill these cracks with before painting? I thought this would be an easy project, but I am running into a limitation of several of the usual materials which are not permitted for sale here in Hawaii (due to regulation?).
Im painting exterior smooth concrete block barriers to my yard. The waterproofing contractor filled some cracks and holes in the block with polyurethane caulk.
For the drywall compound use either 45 or 90 minute dry powdered compound, much easier and quicker For the primer use either a good acrylic, Zinsser 123 or equivalent, or a fast drying oil base primer like Zinsser Coverstain or Kilz original. There is no obvious cracks or holes, should I just clean it with brush and paint with any interior paint? Dont rush, its easier to pressure wash than manually scrape the loose paint. If a lot of water droplets form under the plastic then wait a bit. #4 A straight clear sealer will work well and easy to maintain. I really am thankful for all your help, this is a great resource site, and I appreciate you willing to assist & share your knowledge & expertise. Original wood was all that super dark brown color from the 70s. Can I just dry brush and vacuum all loose debris, or do I need some other chemical and let dry? Caulking windows and doors is the same on a concrete block building as with caulking any interior or exterior surface.
Paint will dry better in direct sunlight even when humidity levels are very high. What Kind of Paint Do You Use on a Porch? Thoughts? I did notice that the block wall beneath the deck is painted, so I guess Ill have to crawl under the deck & paint that part of the wall too. Exterior block surfaces can be either, but interior block surfaces are always smooth.
Im sure the deck itself has bolts holding it in place, but figured that would be too much of a job, plus its not necessary to detach them & paint. Some places the paint is adhered well to the block. Would you recommend removing the paint somehow so I dont cause any damage to the concrete block?
If you have stains coming through the primer spot prime or seal the stains with either Zinsser Cover Stain or a shellac primer. Im a painter not a stucco contractor nor stone veneer installer. Is there a paint that would glue the peeling down where its easily pressure washed off and hold the paint where its not? This would be the same as any masonry surface. I would like to seal it for moisture and also paint it. No peeling , no mold and very few cracks to patch. The paint would be adhering to another layer of acrylic paint which Im assuming is water based anyway. Some sections the cement blocks were just painted. If I use a quality paint will my paint job last . Since the blocks in some areas are not smooth, I was going to apply 2 coats of acrylic block fill primer Such as Watertite? Hi, It had a small backsplash from the 50s. Lee. Since you dont know the type of paint last use the first thing to do is prime the block. A masonry stain will be a better choice, solid color acrylic masonry stain. Any descent paint will do but priming will still be needed. Glidden really isnt that good. Do you recommend paint or stain for unpainted exterior split faced block. This wouldnt be easy and might not last long. If this isnt a well protected wall then your hard work will most likely crack, peel, flake or fade sooner than later. I assumed that it would be similar to the process of preparing to paint, but now Im not sure. The 515 tip is good as well. I still need to paint the main 14 x 22 garage section.
I plan to use an epoxy primer, 50% solids that claims can be applied 8 mils thick. But if youre painting the cinder blocks, then it is another matter entirely. Ive scraped the paint and wire brushed the blocks. So what Im left with is some bare cmu, some paint, and some concrete patch areas. It was primed and then painted with acrylic paint. Dipping and rolling will be slower and more labor intensive, but when painting the interior of occupied block buildings and homes rolling can be the best application method. Thank you so much for providing such valuable information, and taking the time to answer questions. nice thread. With that said, sounds like you are have a good understanding your needs and doing everything correctly and in proper order. Typical coverage for Block Fill is 200 square feet per gallon on smooth block and 100 square feet on split-face block. I dont know their products but buy the best you can afford. The roller cover needs to be a thick nap and of the highest quality. Or would a product like Sherwin Williams Loxon be a good choice?
Do I need to remove all traces of paint or just peeling paint? So far, Ive not had any issues using polycrylicmeaning no ones called me complainingwell not yet anywayYou are correct about the sparathane Varathane Marine spar urethane is the only stuff that actually lives up to its UV protection claims,.Ive only seen it in spray cans, and tbh Ive never looked for gallons of it, but now I will. If the window installers used silicone caulking then I would have them fix it, if possible. I have a recently constructed cmu shop and just finished aggressively pressure washing the interior walls for paint. All of these will require similar approaches when preparing the block for the protective finish coat. Some of the blocks appear to have a light green ?plaster? Should I prime it with block filler? I typically use both acrylic and latex paint, with a retarder to prevent it drying too quickly. It goes up about 15 inches on the walls (interior) and my contractor says it can be painted over with no problems. I cant imagine any builder using cinder block for basement walls. A little bit of a hodgepodge. Go ahead an caulk everything in before the primer, this is fine.
Choosing a good quality paint and applying 2 coats on everything will help. I would like to try and paint it myself with the very best products available so that I wont have to do it again for a long time. Maybe something with a good sheen to help with cleaning. One of your posts said polyurethane caulk needs to be primed. The big thing is making sure the tops of the walls are sealed, roof or metal caps depending on the building construction. Its been getting down in the mid 40s at night so I decided to use Zinsser 123 since it doesnt have the 24-hour requirement. We installed decorative concrete block (breeze block) in our carport in Seattle a year ago.
Again, Thanks,
I guess I may have just answered my question above. A semi-gloss will be more resistant to cleaning chemicals and higher humidity compared to other sheens. Easiest would be chisel off the glue, patch if needed with drywall compound then tile.
We can have single digit humidity and paint that drys so fast it cracks if to thick, the surface hardens while the inside film is still a liquid. Hope to use a regular paint due to cost, as opposed to a specialty type. Most excellent thread.
This is my very last question, I promise, with my fingers somewhat crossed. The interior is easy. Also, the previous water penetration has left some mildew stains and efflorescence. The power washer can be used to remove loose paint from the block (be careful) but can do a lot of damage to wood. A couple things to consider are temperature and humidity; warm temps help with drying out the surface but high humidity can be a problem, slowing down the drying or stopping it altogether. For the stucco repair use a efis base coat and acrylic top coat for the texture. All raw unpainted areas should be primer, spot primed, with an acrylic universal primer such as Zinsser 123 or Gripper. Im looking for a semi gloss finish.
It just ticks me off when people take shortcuts b/c they dont want to do quality work. Would just a coat or 2 of primer sufficiently prepare the surface for my needs? Do you foresee any problems with only prepping the 3 panels Im concerned with? Start with a clean surface. My plan based on what Ive read above and researched is to pressure wash the exterior walls and then apply the acrylic block filler as a primer and then come back over with DryLoc waterproof paint. After all, not all types of paint can work for every surface and material! Shouldnt window caulking have been done differently, not attached to loose paint?
Block is density is 105 pounds per cubic foot (very porous) and is very common here in Florida. I have a 30 year old cinder block shop, outside painted white and the inside is unpainted. You can prime with the Loxon the next day then paint after that. I recommend Seal Krete concrete sealer or something like it. That said, I want to ask a quick question and make sure Im on the right track I just purchased a cinder block building that the exterior has the split face blocks that were previously painted. You can do 2 coats instead of one very thick one. amzn_assoc_tracking_id = "housepainti0e-20"; We put bondcrete on it first than we painted it with water based paint. Cleaning with TSP isnt needed if the surfaces are clean. My question I am not sure how much more prepping to do, i.e., sand those chunks down smoother or find some cement-like material to patch the chunks or just leave them as is? General rule is a primer is needed when changing types of paint (oil to latex), seal a porous surface or seal stains. In addition, I just finished chiseling away any loose mortar and repointing these joints with new mortar so will have fresh mortar joints to paint as well. How old is the current paint and what shape is it in?
Essentially, you can use regular paint, as long as you use the right type of primer!
Each time I put the Glidden paint on, it bubbles and will not stick to the wall or primers.
The main function of the primer is to fill the pores and neutralize the high P.H. The biggest thing with cinder blocks is their pores, lots of them. Googled waterlox and all I found was wood finishes. Im attempting to repaint the bathrooms at the shop where I work. I have some Kilz Mold and Mildew Primer and the Restoration Primer. We have repainted our 1959 Florida concrete block house with great success! Use acidic masonry cleaner to remove this unsightly mess. What would you recommend in this scenario?
When Im given too much info, I often get overwhelmed and just lost. If its not fully dry is that an issue?
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