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For added protection a water detector for a sump pump or condensate. High-efficiency heating and air conditioning systems produce condensation, and that condensation needs to go somewhere besides your basement floor. What could be the problem? I believe I saw that done in some of my searching online. This helps to remove dirty water from your home so it wont contaminate the water that you drink. Already pulled the cardboard strip out. You are using an out of date browser. Where are the yellow wires found that are connected to the condensate pump on the air conditioner? I'll take a trip to the orange store and buy a couple of feet of t-stat wire. I haven't found any pictures of a completed installation showing the wires. If you dont already have one or if you need to replace one, here is a guide to install one. It may not display this or other websites correctly. The practice used to be to use the yellow wire to the condenser because it allowed the air handler to stay on, but shut off the cooling if the pump stopped. So i use the red wire??? All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. It can prevent water damage which is good, but when used on the R wire it will shut off your furnace which could lead to frozen pipes if you were away in the winter. My stat is literally on the wall separating the heater closet from the living room, so about 4 feet from the stat to where the wires inter the furnace. Thanks all. https://www.amazon.com/Harbor-Freight-Tools-Water-Detector/dp/B003UMOUA6. Just my personal preference not intending to disagree with anybody here. I assume it comes out of the unit somewhere since it has to go to the thermostat, but I can't seem to find it. This way, if the condensate pump fails the safety switch (yellow wires), it will stop the furnace/AC and no more water from condensate will be generated. Do you have a pan with a safety switch in it under your furnace? Thanks. I assume I need to hook these up into the 24 volt thermost circuit for it to work because after being plugged in and filled with water, the pump does not turn on. Thanks for all the replies. A subreddit for Heating, Ventilation, & Air Conditioning technicians - please visit r/hvacadvice to ask general questions, and r/thermostats for thermostat issues! Disclosure: BobVila.com participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for publishers to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.

The float switch on mine stuck this morning and it overflowed. Be cautious using the safety switch. Cut the red wire from the furnace to thermostat and connect the yellow wires to the cut ends of the red wire. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I think I need to wire the extra wires into the red wire that goes to the thermostat, but where do I do that? Copyright 2022 Acton Media Inc. All rights reserved. Some arent too speedy and you can set/play with temps remotely too. The one I took out was hard wired and the green wire, although connected at the switch under the cover, was cut off at the other end of the conduit and not connected to anything. This article has been viewed 60,614 times. Listen toBOB VILA ON INSTALLING CONDENSATION PUMPSor read the text below: If you have a floor drain near the unit, just use plastic tubing and good old gravity to get the water from the outlet port of your unit to the drain. However, I'm still not sure how to wire them in. References. If only a/c condensate goes into the pump killing the Y is alright. It's to avoid a flood of water -- typically above a ceiling etc. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Since the old pump did not have a safety switch at all, for the time being, I'll leave the new one the same way. To create this article, volunteer authors worked to edit and improve it over time. That shuts everything off. I personally prefer to break "Y" cooling mode.

Assuming I do find it, what type of connections should be made? I suggest using the safety switch when water damage is unacceptable and your house is being monitored either by family, friends or an alarm system with a temperature alarm. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Now, do I really need the safety switch connected since the old unit didn't have one? It may also be a good idea to install a check valve somewhere on the discharge line to avoid backflow of the discharge water so it cant be sucked back into the a/c unit. The only wires coming out of the HVAC unit go to the outside unit. You must log in or register to reply here. We changed the condensation pump, but now the air conditioner won't come on. wikiHow is a wiki, similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. Most don't come on until they are almost full. Did you fill the pump completely? I'm assuming R will be coming out of the unit somewhere? Breaking R kills everything which could suck if your tech can't show up for a day or two and you need heat at night. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. It can save a lot of headaches. Press J to jump to the feed. Surely I don't wire it directly to the screws on the control board? Bob Vila, 11 Ways to Make the Most of Your Towns Curbside Cleanup Day, Bob Vila Radio: Save Time (and Water) with a Recirculating Pump, 16 Home Improvements That Are Best Not to DIY, Slash Your Electric Bill with 11 Savvy Hacks. If the pump overfills, the switch breaks R to the thermostat, shutting both the furnace and air conditioner off. Or, is this something I should leave to someone who knows what they are doing? My pump just has two wires about 8 inches long hanging out of it. How do I know if I have a high efficiency furnace? ^^^^^ Bill you can get a WiFi Tstat that can send you alerts. To create this article, volunteer authors worked to edit and improve it over time. Should I break one of the wires going to the outside unit instead? Take the other lead and wire it to where it came from on the furnace. Then attach plastic tubingone end to the exit port of the condensate pump, the other to the drain. When you switch the red, the thermostat is usually shows dead also and is a good hint at what the problem is. **IF you have high effeciency furnace you need to break Red going to tstat. Be sure to check the pump periodically to make sure its operating as it should. It is sitting on a couple 2x4's. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 60,614 times. wikiHow is where trusted research and expert knowledge come together. Red wire, got to the terminal board in the furnace or at the stat. Do I just cut the red wire and connect one of the extra wires from the pump to each side of the red wire with wire nuts? Find R coming from the thermostat into your furnace. I'd wire the red wire going out to the condensing unit for ac through those 2 wires.

If so you can wire it in SERIES with it. Bob Vila Radiois a newly launched daily radio spot carried on more than 75 stations around the country (andgrowing). The discharge line should run into a line that goes to the citys waste, once again to avoid contamination of fresh water. Thats especially true if the drain is higher than the outlet port. Once youve located the outlet port where the water exits your unit, attach PVC pipe to route the water from there down into the condensate pump (which will need to be lower than the outlet port). If you dont have a drain nearby, you may need a condensate pump to get the water to a drain.

wikiHow is a wiki, similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. If heating or AC are a must, then connect the yellow wires to an alarm. Now that there are condensing furnaces, you use the red wire so it shuts off the cooling or the heat. The safety switch wires on all the standard type pumps I've run across do not need to be hooked up for it to operate, some of the mini split pumps may have extra wires that need to be hooked up but the regular pumps don't care. My stat is a Honeywell RTH2510 and has four wires: red, green, white yellow. Make sure your unit is level, then check the float to make sure it isn't sticking. By signing up you are agreeing to receive emails according to our privacy policy. The safety switch will prevent a mess caused by a malfunction of the pump. I'll be damned, didn't fill it enough. There is no pan under the furnace. My current pump failed and overflowed. % of people told us that this article helped them. Just 'break' R coming from the thermostat. I can't see any other external wires? This way you still have airflow and heat if needed until the problem is fixed. I've found that the two extra wires coming out of the condensate pump are the low voltage safety wires to cut power if the pump fails. I got a new one but this one has two wires for a safety switch where the old one did not. The switch on the pump is to interrupt the 24 signal -- this will turn off the AC should the pump fail. It happens about every two years or so. Doesnt hurt much. Now it works. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/d\/d1\/Install-a-Condensate-Pump-Step-1.jpg\/v4-460px-Install-a-Condensate-Pump-Step-1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/d\/d1\/Install-a-Condensate-Pump-Step-1.jpg\/aid4653504-v4-728px-Install-a-Condensate-Pump-Step-1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"