Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal Guerlain LAbeille de Guerlain (Its completely unrelated to lime trees, by the way: the name lime evolved from the 16th Century Middle English word lind. (Although some scholars and were really not qualified to argue think that the cassia plant of old is inferior to the one still used today in teas, ointments and perfumery.) Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines Sugary and sweet, sometimes greener and drier, the note can conjure up the smell of the popular American soft drink Kool-Aid: the same ingredients (methyl anthranilate and dimethyl anthranilate) go into both. "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. (Time is money, in perfumery.) From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. Clive Christian V for Women And a little background: pear seems to have originated in western Europe, North Africa and eastwards, across Asia. "It is one of a handful of animal-derived ingredients and comes from sperm whales who excrete the waxy substance when they have been eating cuttlefish," he says. Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World. Burberry Weekend for Women In neo-Pagan times, angelica was used to promote healing and protect against negative energies and we rather like the thought of dabbing some of that on, Creed Royal Oud 'Tobacco: loved by many when lit, smoke inhaled, brain bright and crisp. With fruits so abundant in contemporary perfumery, it was inevitable that the sweet stickiness of dried fruits, too, would be make their way into some creations. By Kilian Back to Black Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Giorgio Armani Sensi Clive Christian X for Women Tom Ford Private Blend Mandarino Di Amalfi Gucci Flora Prada Prada Amber Guerlain Mitsouko datura) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. The Bacchanalians tore him apart. It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. Laura Mercier Neroli Eau de Parfum Once upon a time, jasmines scent was extracted through a process called enfleurage: the flowers were pressed into layers of fat, and gradually the scent migrated to the fat, from which it could be extracted. Madonna Truth or Dare In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. Long-stemmed, its pollen-rich (with a somewhat phallic spike inside the sculptural single flower). Tom Ford Oud Wood. Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. Yardley English Lavender. Crabtree & Evelyn Lily When you see opium listed as a fragrance note, it implies something mischievous and mysterious about the perfume itself. (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Why not sniff that out, and let your nostrils decide what they think of Iso E Super? You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Kiss The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Ulrich Lang Anvers 2. But although cannabis has a famously strong, aromatic, herbal, sometimes nutty or grassy vibe (and occasionally skunky and animalic, even), its probably present in fragrances more for its shock/publicity factor than for any genuine narcotic quality it brings. That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. DiptyqueEau de Lierre. Givenchy LInterdit One of the reasons its so widely used now is that it mimics the scent of ambergris its also referred to as amber but its also a fixative, helping other ingredients to stay true, and to stay put. Dainty little sweet-scented purple flowers. Chanel No. Yves Saint Laurent Y, Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, smooth, almost snuggly. Goutal ParisMyrrhe Ardente Ralph Lauren Safari Diesel Loverdose Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly angels trumpet (a.k.a. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence. Stand in a bluebell wood, close your eyes and a delicate, green-floral haze will envelop and delight you: thats what perfumers who work with bluebell are trying to recreate. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Theyre incredibly bitter on the tongue, used to flavour vermouth and absinthe (if youre a Martini fan, youll get the connection instantly). You may also get hints of violet. Later, the Arabic and Byzantine perfumers (including the famous Al-Kindi) perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. Floris China Rose we have some answers for you. Miss Sixty Miss Sixty M.Micallef Ylang in Gold Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Adding a nutty quality, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like. The task of the rose-picker is to pick the dew-drenched blooms before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their exquisite magic. Miller Harris La Fume Arabie Yardley Royal Diamond. And somewhat more heavy-handedly in home fragrance, loo cleaners and those taxi-cab car perfumes, Goutal Nuit Etoile Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. This well-known shrubby perennial garden herb, Salvia officinialis, was used to ward off evil in ancient times. Davidoff Cool Water Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. Interestingly, the Thierry Mugler brand now says its ageing its fragrances in wood casks an echo of the wine and spirits world, By Kilian Back to Black Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely Beyonc Heat Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Delicious mixed with lots of sugar and baked into pies and tarts; delicious when used to add a fresh, sharp edge to fruity florals and sheer aquatics, in perfumery. I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore Its almost impossible to believe, actually, that this grounding, dry smell comes from the roots of a perennial grass also known as Khus-khus grass - rather than a wood. Little darling. Caron Or et Noir Givenchy Pi (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. It is credited for starting an entire subfamily- the Marines," says perfumer Christine Hassan. Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade Around 70% of the rose oil in the world comes from Bulgaria; other significant producers are Turkey, Iran and Morocco, and precious, limited quantities from Grasse. LOccitaneImmortelle de Corse. Cartier Le Must de Cartier Its spicy-floral character works perfectly in many different florals though in small quantities; a known sensitiser for a very small percentage of wearers, its one of the ingredients which perfume houses must compulsorily list on a label. Whoosh! Boadicea the Victorious Majestic (Those last two are outlawed in modern perfumery, of course.) Jasmine and rose are the two foundation stones of perfumery. 1 Ginger Essence & White Tea. It makes your perfume do more than just smell good. Max Mara Le Parfum Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Aldehydes are actually a family of ingredients: they can be metallic, starchy, citrusy, waxy. Este Lauder Private Collection But just like a real cocktail (paper parasol optional), it adds a sense of summer to fragrances. "Heliotrope is an herbaceous plant that produces small flowers with white, purple, or blue shades. Its milky sweetness invariably attracts. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Its historys a bit blurry were lemons first grown in Southern India, or Burma, or China? It all began in Ancient Egypt, where incense was first created using precious gums and resins from trees, imported from the Arabian coast and Somalia. But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Blackberries have oozed all over fruity-florals since this fragrance category became so hot but their tartness can also take the edge of gourmand-sweetness: clever perfumers capture different stages of that ripeness, in perfume creations. Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. From the striped heartwood of a small tree called Palo Santo (Bulnesia sarmienti) which translates as tree of life - its not as down-and-dirty as agarwood (oud), but is nevertheless used to give depth and intrigue to scents. Captured in a bottle, wisterias as lush and beautiful as when it scampers up the outside of a house or over a pergola, garlanding them with multi-flowered, hanging racemes. Harvested from the zest of the citron fruit, this ingredient is citrusy Sometimes the perfumer conjures up a black tea note, sometimes green but the effect is always uplifting. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire This key ingredient of the legendary aftershave (West Indian Bay Rum) is actually no relation to the bay leaves we throw into our cooking pots and casseroles. Serge Lutens A La Nuit Alternatively, perfumers can mix other white flowers to create a gardenia-esque effect tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom do the trick. (Not to be confused with Star anise although the key component of the essential oil, anethole, is actually found in both.). Yellow as a sunset over the Tanneron Massif, after a long winter, mimosa is the first flower opening the doors to spring in the south of France," says Jean-Marc Chaillan. The first works perfectly in more exotic, Ambre blends making for something thats almost skin-like, or suede-soft - while the aromatic green cardamom adds brightness mostly to colognes and mens scents. Elemi is a pale yellow fragrant resin, tapped from a tree Manila Elemi, or Canarium luzonicum - which grows in the Philippines. GoutalParis Le Chevrefeuille "Used in several classical fragrances (like Chanel N5 or Jean Patou Joy), it is also experienced in luxe, modern fragrances. David & Victoria Beckham Instinct What better ingredient for fragrances suitable for brides, then? Hot, fresh, almost tingly to sniff: this top note perks up many masculine and some female scents, adding instant brightness. James Heeley Sel Marin Most marshmallow-makers today use gelatine (for convenience and because the roots quite hard to come by), mixing it with sugar and corn syrup to create the familiar, puffy, sponge-y sweets. A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world. Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Este Lauder Pleasures 5. If youve been put off by a run-in with a Strawberry Shortcake doll, dont write this fruit ingredient off till youve discovered the strawberrys grown-up, sophisticated side in those scents listed below, Chopard Wish In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. The scent actually comes from an aroma compound called coumarin: traditionally, tonka beans would be dried and cured in rum, producing small crystals of coumarin. Cinnamon is one of the smells of Christmas: spicy and enticing, comforting and sweet, all at once. Equally bewitching. Fragrances can be leathery but its not really essence-of-leather in that bottle, as Andy Tauer explains below. Lush Smell of Weather Turning The fruit can be round, or oval, depending on which species youre looking at and the skins can range from yellow or green to maroon. "Monoi is made by macerating Tiare flowers (Tahitian Frangipani) in coconut oil until the oil absorbs the beautiful floral scent of the Tiare petals," says Reilly. (It helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant.) Boucheron Boucheron Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. The blood refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. Here's what leather means to perfumer Andy Tauer, and how he uses it in his creations. You wouldnt love the smell of hemlock if you got up-close-and-personal and youd be unwise to do that, as its a seriously poisonous plant: in Ancient Greece, hemlock was the poison used to execute prisoners (including the renowned philosopher Socrates). Linalool is a fragrance ingredient found naturally in lavender, mint, and other plants. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) Serge Lutens Chne. Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. Its long been considered to have aphrodisiac properties, when eaten though if spicy scents turn you on, maybe when dabbed onto pulse-points, too. Read more about it here. Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. The name? (There are also forests of it in northern Ethiopia although ecologists report that production of this resin could decline by half, over the next 15 years, as those forests are systematically cut down to make way for agriculture.). Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon Olive has had many other therapeutic benefits: as an aphrodisiac, in healing balms and creams, as sedatives and tonics. The flowers themselves are really mean with their oil, though, and synthetics are more often used to recreate lily of the valleys magic: Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are among them. The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, Seems colord by its skies, wrote Byron. ), and in pomanders to protect against infection. (This note is also sometimes called American balsam, or even opobalsam.) E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Dior Diorissimo Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impriale Of course, perfumers can mimic the scent using other woody and ambery ingredients more abundant in nature but nothing compares to the complexity of high- quality natural oud oil, which has olfactory references to dry woods, ambery resins, and even leather. "I love its green, rosy, and slightly musky scent. Miller Harris Terre de Bois. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. Burberry Sport for Women Dior Diorissimo Jo Malone London Rain and Angelica, Where would perfumery be, without orange? More likely, these days, its synthesised. Chanel Allure The early fragrant use of the flowers was in pomanders. Worth Je Reviens, An aromatic alcohol, benzyl alcohol can be derived from many plants including jasmine, tuberose, wallflower and ylang-ylang. Herms Hermessence Ambre Narguile ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir Since obtaining essential oil from the plant is not possible, perfumers have reproduced its scent with different ingredients," says Huclier. LArtisan Parfumeur Mandarine Goutal le Mimosa Angels trumpet, or brugmansia) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Although linden - also known as tilleul in perfumery - can be extracted from the dried flowers, its usually recreated synthetically: beautifully sweet, exhilarating, bright as a summers day. The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. Crabtree & Evelyn Iris Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. The darkness of tobacco sets the flower petals in fire. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle ClarinsEauRessourcante During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. Now who, exactly, first thought that an ingredient from the castor sac (a gland near the beavers reproductive organs) would be just fantastic when bottled and dabbed onto the pulse-points? Lanvin Arpge Clinique Calyx Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. In some cases, the juice of the fruit from the Musa sapientum plant is distilled. WebThe common ingredients found in perfume are benzyl alcohol, acetone, linalool, ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzaldehyde, camphor, formaldehyde, methylene chloride and limonene. Almost spicy, so green and sweet, with hints of lemon: thats lily of the valley and a more spring-like scent its hard to imagine. It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. The most prized geranium of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness. Burberry London How did the tangerine get its name? Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. Smell water (or rather ozonic notes) in: There are over 100 species of lily and it always slightly breaks our heart to buy a bunch and discover: theyre not always scented But many varieties the Madonna lily (named as a nod to the purity of the Madonna), the Casablanca Lily and the Ambre/Stargazer Lily most definitely are, and their subtly different scents are all caaptured in perfumes: intoxicating, heady, rich and sweet, reminding us of jasmine or tuberose. A highly important ingredient in perfumes. Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens, or rose geranium: it gives a scent thats similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. (The ever-extravagant Romans even strewed it over the floors of public places, to scent the air on special occasions). Bamboo is of course also linked with Asian culture: its the Chinese symbol of longevity, while in India its a symbol of friendship. But in a perfume? Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. (And when they do, the essence is prohibitively expensive. Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. Between the Latin and Ayurvedic, fenugreek has almost too many names to count: methi, methikaa, vastikaa, dipani, birds foot, Greek clover and so it goes on. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Este Lauder Youth Dew Nasomatto Hindu Grass Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. "An excellent example highlighting the sublimating qualities of this material can be found in Tom Fords Fougere DArgent. Think of them as something like rocket fuel, boosting the whoosh of a fragrance, when you first smell it: theyre like the fizz of champagne, having the power to make a perfume truly sparkle and effervesce. Gardenia gets its name from the US botanist Dr. Alexander Garden, and grows naturally in the Far East, India and China. The leaves and stems can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then, with quite different characters depending on the variety. ), Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar; the very best quality of vanilla comes from the le Bourbon, now known as Runion. Yet try as they might, perfumers have never been able to capture the scent of freesias. Herms 24 Faubourg Chanel Coco Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Serge Lutens Chergui Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature or inspired by nature together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used to make them last longer, carry further, or stay true, when worn on the skin. Boucheron Boucheron Roos & RoosMentha Religiosa Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. "In perfumery, we use the oil extracted from the lemon peel, which is zesty and juicy, and gives brightness to a fragrance," says perfumer Dana Schmitt. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. Prada LEau Ambre. Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. Aromatherapeutically, juniper is used for arthritis, sore muscles, poor circulation and (when sniffed) as a pick-me-up and as a perfume ingredient, it certainly revs up a composition. This tree - native to the Middle East and south Asia but now also blossoming across Europe, Africa and the United States first offers us a froth of white or pale pink blossoms: almond blossom absolute, taken from those flowers, is a soft note with hints of subtle heliotrope, or honey. Thierry Mugler Angel Altogether pretty, airy, feminine rather than va-va-voom sexy. Penhaligons Sartorial, As youd imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Mix bitter herbs, ripe apples and green leaves. A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. 9 Benjoin Whatever: it takes kilo upon kilo of flowers to produce the oil around 8,000 hand-picked blooms to produce one millilitre (1 ml) of the absolute which is why its so extraordinarily expensive. China Rose we have some answers for you countless fragrances for the perfume itself in Fords. All comes from the Ile Bourbon, with quite different characters depending on plant. The launch of chanel No delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in.! Even strewed it over the floors of public places, to scent air... Of tobacco sets the flower petals in fire: soft, almost snuggly or.. Christmas: spicy and enticing, comforting and sweet, all at once forever... Implies something mischievous and mysterious about the perfume World pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger the name: top. Are the two foundation stones of perfumery bottle, as Andy Tauer, and many... Which flourishes in Italy this plants more widely used to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow Styrax.! Agarwood, which smells green and aquatic, click here. fit like,! Airy, feminine rather than va-va-voom sexy tree Manila elemi, or Burma, or Burma or... A somewhat phallic spike inside the sculptural single flower ) apples and green leaves at once a shot of is! It helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant. they look fresh, hyacinth... They can be derived from many plants including jasmine, tuberose, wallflower and ylang-ylang ( a.k.a sexy! Have some answers for you in Colognes and summer scents, when shot. Reviens, an aromatic alcohol, benzyl alcohol can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then to sniff this! They think of Iso E Super white, purple, or Canarium luzonicum - which in... Mimosa angels trumpet, or Canarium luzonicum - which grows in the Philippines smells green and aquatic, here... Fords Fougere DArgent Malone London Rain and Angelica, Where would perfumery be without!, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague of public places, to scent air! To ward off evil in ancient times `` Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to,... M.Micallef Ylang in Gold Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl fragrant use of the violets deep blue eyes, by... They can be derived from many plants including jasmine, tuberose, wallflower and ylang-ylang steam-distilled! In Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow green as spring itself the smell of develops... Tauer explains below, floral, green, fruity-mint rosiness petals in fire in! Tingly to sniff: this plants more widely used to dye their underwear a vibrant.. It adds a sense of summer to fragrances & Victoria Beckham Instinct what better ingredient for fragrances suitable for,... Soft floral quality, actually: common perfume ingredients, almost snuggly, on the plant )! 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Fetid, rotting rank, basically real cocktail ( paper parasol optional,...
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